Posted by: Talie Morrison | September 2, 2012

Pyrenees 5/Talie 5

I may not be winning, but I think I might be gaining!  🙂
Wow are these mountains BIG.   They are big and beautiful and intense!   I have just finished going over the highest pass on the HRP.   It was pretty intense –  I think my mountain climbing buddies in Crested Butte would love this stuff – but I am usually feeling like I am going to wet my pants!!   If you have been following my Spot, you might notice it has been on a lot the last couple of days –  I usually only turn it on when I am in “dicey” areas or once when I get to my site for the night.   Well it’s been a bit dicey lately!  But, all is well – I’m feeling great and doing days with 9 hours of going over boulders, steep passes, scree slopes, and even some nice little trails once in a while!

You  should  have seen me “down climbing” about 50 meters!   It was some serious 3/1 climbing (have 3 things solid before you move the 4th)!  I was totally running on high adrenaline!  And now the book says I’m going into the hardest part of the trail – yikes!

   I have met 5 people who are doing the whole Haute Route (all of them faster than me – but then none of them are in their 60s).   I have also met my first American hiking over here (not doing the HRP) – another solo female from Colorado  (Denver).   Maybe I am passing Americans on the trail, you just say “Hola” or “Bonjour”, but the many nights I have eaten in the “refugios”, I haven’t heard of any other Americans out here.   I did meet another German man who has the same Aarn backpack as I do!   That was so exciting for me since I’ve never seen anyone else on the trail with one!  Way fun!!
A couple of days ago I passed by a really fancy resort (Hospital de Benesque – the “hospital” is a deritive of “hospitality”) I decided to get a room so I could soak my feet (even if it was way expensive!)  and it started lightening and thundering and raining and hailing  about 3:30 am!   I commended myself for a very wise decision! :-).
  My pack is still heavy – but I mailed home 3.2 kilos (I think that’s about 7 lbs) – it has made my life a lot nicer!  I’m not carrying a stove any more, so when I am camped out in the wilds, I do miss a hot cup of tea – but when I am huffing and puffing up a pass, I don’t miss it at all!  And trying to mail something from a “remote” post office in France is a story in itself!  :-).
Now I am in a little town of Salardu, Spain — very  beautiful old buildings in the old part of town — and I’m staying in a B&B that is a museum and is run by a friend of Xavi’s (CB friend).  Talk about small towns,  I had to take a bus 10 ks down the road just to buy batteries.  Also the weather took a turn on the cold side so I needed one more “layer”.  But now I think I am set — the next 10-12 days are some of the most remote of the trip — and I thought I was already remote!!  I have had to add back on some weight with more food for this section along with that jacket and pants.  Oh well…
I am more than 1/2 way  through – my GPS shows I’ve gone 273 miles!  It has been a really interesting adventure!  I have been pleasantly surprised at how well my body is holding up!  Just keep on “trucking”!
   I have met a lot of wonderful people, who are willing to practice their English with me – or put up with my mixture of bad Spanglish and Frenchlish. 🙂 But  I am usually sitting with about 30 other people all eating and talking and I have a silly grin on my face because I can’t understand any of it!!
    With the remoteness of everything and the current technology, I haven’t been able to find “computer cafes” anymore, so I am going to attempt to post this blog from my iPhone.  It probably means no photos, but maybe I can send out a bunch when I am “off the trail”.   I think I have spotted a bar that has wifi (I just have to wait till it reopens at 7 pm!).  Being in Spain, everything closes down from about 1 pm till 6 or 7. And don’t even hope to get dinner before about 8!  And even in the resorts, things are closed on Saturdays and Sundays!  Very different over here.
   The adventure continues…..
Talie
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Responses

  1. You are doing great “My Girl” and half way thru – Yeeeh !!! Take good care and enjoy.


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